Buying a used RV is one of the few situations where spending $250 to $400 upfront can genuinely save you $5,000 to $15,000 down the road. We've done hundreds of pre-purchase inspections across Indian River County since 2016, and roughly 40% of the RVs we inspect have at least one issue the seller didn't disclose or didn't know about. That's not because sellers are dishonest. Most of them simply didn't know about the hidden roof leak, the corroded battery terminals, or the propane regulator that was out of spec. That's what an inspector is for.
- Pre-purchase inspections cost $250 to $400 and take 2 to 3 hours
- We check electrical, plumbing, AC, roof, seals, appliances, propane, and structural integrity
- Moisture meter testing catches hidden water damage that visual inspection misses
- About 40% of used RVs in Florida have at least one undisclosed issue
- Average savings for buyers who get an inspection: $2,500 to $7,000 in avoided repairs
- Florida-specific concerns: water damage, mold, UV degradation, salt air corrosion
This guide walks you through exactly what a professional pre-purchase inspection covers, what it costs, how long it takes, and the Florida-specific red flags that matter most when buying a used RV in Sebastian, Vero Beach, or anywhere in Indian River County.
What We Inspect: The Full Checklist
Our pre-purchase inspection covers 7 major system areas. Here's what we check in each one, and what we're looking for.
1. Electrical System
- Shore power connection: condition of the power cord, plug prongs, and inlet receptacle
- Distribution panel: all breakers tested, wire connections checked for discoloration or looseness
- Converter: output voltage and amperage measured under load
- Inverter (if equipped): tested for proper AC output and transfer switch function
- Battery bank: terminal condition, voltage under load, capacity estimate
- GFCI outlets: every one tested for proper trip and reset
- All outlets and switches: tested for function and grounding
- 12V lighting: every fixture checked
- Solar system (if equipped): panel condition, charge controller output, wiring integrity
We follow NEC Article 551 standards for RV electrical systems. If we find wiring that doesn't meet code, it goes in the report as a safety concern, not a cosmetic note. Electrical issues are the most dangerous problems in any RV, and they're also some of the most expensive to fix after the fact. Finding a converter that's failing during an inspection ($350 to $800 to replace) is a lot better than finding it after you've already written the check.
2. Plumbing System
- Water pump: tested for output pressure and cycling behavior
- Water heater: ignition, temperature output, anode rod condition, tank inspection
- Fresh water lines: pressurized and checked for leaks at every connection
- Toilet: valve seal, flush function, base seal
- Faucets and drains: flow rate, drain speed, P-trap condition
- Tank sensors: tested for accuracy (they often lie, and that's worth knowing)
- Low-point drains: checked for operation and seal condition
In Florida, plumbing failures are accelerated by heat. Rubber seals dry out faster, PEX connections expand and contract with temperature swings, and water heater anode rods corrode faster in our mineral-heavy water. We pay extra attention to connections in exterior compartments where heat exposure is worst.
3. Roof, Seals, and Exterior
- Roof membrane: walked and visually inspected for cracks, tears, patches, or bubbling
- All penetration sealant: AC, vents, antenna, solar panels, every point where hardware meets the roof
- Sidewall seams: checked for sealant failure, especially on the side with the most sun exposure
- Window seals: exterior and interior inspection for gaps, discoloration, or weeping
- Exterior compartment seals: every door seal checked
- Underbelly: visually inspected for sagging, tears, or evidence of rodent entry
4. Moisture Meter Testing
This is the single most important tool in a pre-purchase inspection, and it's the one most DIY buyers skip. A pin-type moisture meter reads the moisture content of walls, ceilings, and floors through small test points. Here's why it matters:
- Water damage can exist behind walls for months or years before it shows visible signs inside the RV
- Normal moisture readings for RV walls are 5% to 12%. Anything above 15% indicates active or recent water intrusion
- We test at minimum 20 to 30 points per RV: around every window, along every seam, under every vent and AC unit, and in the corners of slideout walls
- In Florida, elevated moisture is especially concerning because it leads to mold growth within 48 to 72 hours in our humidity
On a recent inspection in Sebastian, the RV looked perfect visually. Clean interior, fresh paint on the trim, no water stains. The moisture meter told a different story: the bedroom wall behind the headboard was reading 28%. We pulled the panel and found active mold growth from a roof leak that had been cosmetically covered. That's a $3,000 to $6,000 repair the buyer would have inherited. Instead, they renegotiated the price by $4,500.
5. Appliances
- Refrigerator: tested on both LP and electric (if dual-fuel), temperature drop measured over 30 minutes
- Furnace: ignition cycle, flame color, exhaust vent condition, thermostat response
- Stove/oven: all burners tested, ignition verified, flame color checked
- Microwave: function test
- Water heater: already covered under plumbing, but also tested for proper LP operation
6. Propane System
- Tank condition: date stamp checked (tanks expire after 12 years and must be recertified), physical condition assessed
- Regulator: tested for proper output pressure (11 inches of water column, per NFPA 1192)
- Line integrity: soap-tested at every connection for leaks
- LP detector: tested for function and proper placement
- CO detector: tested for function
Propane system failures are the most dangerous issue in any RV. A regulator that's out of spec can cause incomplete combustion, which produces carbon monoxide. We don't skip this section, and neither should you.
7. Structural and Slideouts
- Slideout operation: each slideout extended and retracted, checked for smooth operation, proper alignment, and seal condition
- Slideout seals: wiper seals and bulb seals inspected for tears, compression, and proper contact
- Floor condition: walked thoroughly for soft spots, which indicate water damage to the subfloor
- Frame inspection (where accessible): rust, cracks, or bending
- Leveling system: tested for proper operation and leak-free hydraulic lines (if equipped)
- Entry steps: tested for stability, motor function (if electric), and safety latch
Florida-Specific Red Flags
Florida puts unique stresses on RVs that you won't find in northern states. Here are the 5 issues we see most often during pre-purchase inspections in Indian River County:
- Hidden water damage. Florida's rain (52 inches per year) and humidity (74% to 80%) mean that even small seal failures lead to significant moisture intrusion. We find hidden water damage on roughly 40% of used RVs we inspect here.
- Mold. Once water gets in, mold follows within 48 to 72 hours in Florida's climate. Common locations: behind headboards, under dinette seats, inside wardrobe closets, and in the ceiling around AC units.
- UV degradation. With a UV index of 9 to 11 in summer, roof sealants, vent covers, exterior caulking, and rubber seals degrade 30% to 50% faster than in moderate climates. An RV that's been sitting in a Florida storage lot for 2 years without maintenance likely needs $500 to $1,500 in seal and exterior work.
- Salt air corrosion. If the RV has been kept near the coast (Sebastian, Vero Beach, Barefoot Bay), salt air corrodes battery terminals, electrical connections, and exterior hardware faster than inland storage. We check all accessible electrical connections for salt corrosion.
- AC system wear. An RV that's been lived in during Florida summers has 8 to 12 hours of daily AC use from May through October. That's 1,200 to 1,800 hours of compressor run time per year. After 3 years, the AC system may be near the end of its life. We test capacitor strength, fan motor amp draw, and compressor operation to assess remaining life.
What the Inspection Costs
- Travel trailers under 30 feet: $250 to $300
- Fifth wheels and travel trailers 30 to 40 feet: $300 to $375
- Class A, B, or C motorhomes: $325 to $400 (living space only; no engine/drivetrain)
- Pop-up campers: $200 to $250
The inspection includes a written report with photos documenting every finding. The report categorizes issues as safety concerns, recommended repairs, maintenance items, or informational notes. You'll have the report within 24 hours of the inspection, usually same-day.
How Long It Takes
Plan for 2 to 3 hours on-site. A smaller travel trailer with basic systems (single AC, no solar, no generator) takes about 2 hours. A large fifth wheel or Class A with dual AC, solar, a generator, multiple slideouts, and a full appliance package can take 3 hours or more. We don't rush inspections. Skipping a system to save 20 minutes defeats the purpose.
The Money It Saves
Here are 3 real examples from inspections we've done in Indian River County (details anonymized):
- 2019 travel trailer, Sebastian. Seller asking $28,000. We found a hidden roof leak over the bedroom (moisture readings at 26%), a failed converter, and a propane regulator out of spec. Estimated repair cost: $4,800. Buyer renegotiated to $22,500. Inspection cost: $275. Net savings: $4,525.
- 2017 fifth wheel, Vero Beach. Seller asking $35,000. We found both AC capacitors weak (near failure), a slideout seal torn on the off-side, and 3 GFCI outlets that wouldn't trip. Estimated repair cost: $1,100. Buyer proceeded at $33,500. Inspection cost: $350. Net savings: $750 (and the buyer knew what they were getting into).
- 2020 Class C, Barefoot Bay. Seller asking $62,000. We found no significant issues. Clean roof, solid electrical, good plumbing, appliances all functional. Buyer bought with confidence. Inspection cost: $375. Value: peace of mind on a $62,000 purchase.
On average, buyers who get a pre-purchase inspection save $2,500 to $7,000 in avoided repairs or price negotiations. Even when the inspection comes back clean, you've bought certainty. That's worth something when you're writing a check for a used RV.
How to Schedule an Inspection
Call us at 772-238-8487 or text the same number. We'll need the RV's year, make, model, and approximate length, plus the location where the inspection will happen. We can meet you at the seller's location, a dealership lot, a storage facility, or an RV park. The RV needs to be connected to shore power (or have a charged battery bank) so we can test all electrical and appliance systems.
We typically schedule inspections within 2 to 3 business days. If you're about to close on a purchase and need it faster, call and we'll see what we can do. We serve Sebastian, Vero Beach, Fellsmere, Barefoot Bay, Micco, Roseland, Wabasso, and Grant-Valkaria.